An island where you can get lost in the beauty of the landscape and the power of nature, with ever-changing views
Premise
When I chose to organize a trip to Ireland with my partner in early October 2022 I had no idea what to expect. A destination that I didn't know if it would be in my comfort zone and one type of travel with basic characteristics that at first sight could be a deterrent: unfriendly weather and driving on the left equally unattractive for us, Europeans.
The initial choice was made by exclusion. In fact, when we were thinking about the summer holidays we had decided to stay in Europe for safety as the Covid19 was still in circulation. Given our need to stop flights and hotels at least six months in advance (a well-established habit in travel organization which allows us to have good availability in the choice of logistical means and often to find savings opportunities), quickly traveling the available destinations and excluding the Iberian peninsula, France, Italy, the United Kingdom, Eastern Europe and other European destinations already visited, we essentially thought about nature and the period we were living in, made up of walks and tranquility and we chose Ireland.
That's how it started... it continued for a good deal of time in the following months dedicated to finding places to see and organizing the week to spend there, and ended up with a week of colours, serenity and wild emotions in Ireland!
By scrolling through the article you will find a description of the most significant stages of the tour that we did in one week at the end of June 2023 and some organizational aspects to keep in mind. I deliberately chose not to upload all the photos, in order not to completely reveal the destination, because it deserves to be experienced according to one's personal nature.
Table of contents
Some things to immediately clarify before thinking about going to Ireland
Let's get it straight... if you plan to travel in comfort, without concussions, in search of a sun bed on the beach, in search of the sun and a tan or an aperitif at sunset: this is not the ideal destination for you!
If you think you'll see Ireland only by visiting Dublin with a trip to the Cliffs of Moher... you're missing out on a great opportunity: this island can offer much more!
If you think of Ireland only for its beer, pubs and St. Patrick's Day... I'm sorry to tell you it again, but it's not just that.
Ireland is an island that really has a lot to offer simply as it is, but the basis for a trip to Ireland is having the ability to experience it, starting with a certain type of mindset.
I'll try to explain myself better.
Going around the island you will realize that to go and see wonderful places you will have to travel many km (the roads are perfectly maintained and also in terms of tourism it is a super organized island) often in the middle of nothing: but that is nothing, there is an immensity of life in that nothing!
Just as it may happen that the day you decided to go and see the Kerry Cliffs it rains and the wind is so strong that it will force you to cling to a fence in order to stay stable: but this is part of that trip, and I, who felt this very day, I was lucky enough to experience this emotion and I can assure you that, in that landscape and in that circumstance, it was one of the most fun and full of life things I've ever done!
You can't check the forecast and hope to always see the sun, but when that ray of sunshine comes out unexpectedly and maybe the moment you're in Connemara park, you'll realize you've never seen something so colorful before!
But this atmosphere won't be like this for just one day, it will be like this almost every day!
I felt immensely free in the days I spent around the island, I loved the human silence and the sound of living nature, landscapes I had never seen before, the immense force of nature, the colors and much more.
But now enough talk about my feelings, let's get to the tour!
The Tour
Small note: unfortunately, having only seven days available, we excluded the passage from Northern Ireland and concentrated on the rest of the territory.
DUBLIN: to start settling in...
The first stop was the capital: in fact, we chose to land at Dublin airport, convenient and practical also for car rental.
The first impression I got off the plane given the Italian summer heat... was the coolness and the wind, but after the hot weeks of June, it was a pleasant feeling!
Dublin, in my opinion, takes a day to experience and to start settling in Ireland.
Some points of interest:
-Visit the GUINNESS STOREHOUSE (takes about 2 hours): even if you don't like beer it's a good idea to see how they managed to modernize a historical tale: walking through the seven floors of the historic building, which was once the plant of the brewery, you will be able to interactively explore the characteristics of this beer which has become one of the symbols of Ireland. The reading of the museum is in a postmodern key: starting from the ingredients and the production process, passing through its founder, Arthur Guinness, and from historical advertisements, with the promotional campaigns that the company has used over the years, to get to the Guinness Tasting Experience, you will have the opportunity to discover and internalize Guinness!
- Walk in the historic center and along the River Liffey: it is the part of Dublin that has remained with me the most, simply because walking through the oldest streets of the city and crossing the famous bridges along the river gave me a great sense of freedom. Note of color: passing in the late afternoon in the Temple Bar district, the pubs light up with the music of young artists that resonates and accompanies you happily through the streets and... enter "The Temple Bar" it's a very special experience!
- Other points of interest to visit: if you have more time, a visit to Trinity College, one of the most prestigious universities in Dublin, will allow you to breathe an air of culture even just by entering the Old Library, one of the oldest and most spectacular bookshops in Europe ... the visit to this part with the Long Room is subject to a fee and given the considerable influx to book in advance with the timetable admission fee, while admission to the university campus is free. Even a walk through Grafton Street, the shopping street and the Victorian park of St. Stephen's Green can be pleasant moments to complete the day.
I recommend dedicating the initial part of the day to the Guinness Storehouse, to follow a passage from the park to get to Trinity College, and then move more freely in the ancient streets of Dublin, arriving towards late afternoon in the Temple Bar district and along the Liffey river to see the Irish-spirited pubs and inner streets come alive!
CONNEMARA PARK: an incredible landscape… enchanting
After settling in with the guide on the left side of the road, we begin to move towards one of the more natural parts of the island and head towards the small County of Galway, a convenient base for hiking in Connemara National Park. The road from Dublin to Galway isn't so exciting, especially if done under heavy rain like it happened to us, but be patient, it's just a transfer for a new day that awaits you to discover an almost incredible park!
It is difficult to describe in words what a day spent in this immense natural park gives you inside. The peculiarity of the landscape in which you are immersed, the variety of colors that you can observe, and the passage from one end of this territory to the other made me remain a whole day out of breath, without thoughts, simply enraptured by the nature that I felt inside me, somewhat incredulous both of the emotions of calm, serenity and tranquility I was feeling, both of the enthusiasm that chased me at every new view that presented itself in front of me along the internal streets.
Let's set off to discover Connemara Park… and here again the main things that I think should not be missed in this park:
-Trekking to Diamond Hill: it is a path that goes up the "diamond hill", it is not particularly difficult but still requires attention in some steps, especially towards the top, to be done with trekking. There are several footpaths starting from the visitor center all well signposted of varying lengths (1km, 1.5km, 2.5km and 6km). I recommend taking the longer route if the weather permits - it's not that light so bring something to nibble and drink. I personally think I took at least 20 photos in this part alone! Trekking is a must-do on the list, when you reach the top of Diamond Hill you will have an incredible 360-degree panorama: I believe that here is one of the most authentic images of Ireland. The view is breathtaking, the landscape enchanting in my opinion, and by car I'm sorry but you will never be able to catch these glimpses of the island. It's worth the effort!
-Sky Road to get to Clifden: if after trekking to Diamond Hill you are not too tired, head in the direction of Clifden. It is possible to undertake this loop car ride of about 12 km between wind and ocean with a rugged and lonely coastal landscape but with a very special charm!
-Dog's Bay: a stop not to be missed, to relax before leaving the park. It's a beach with white sand and crystal clear water, it looks incredible... I'll be repetitive I know, but this paragraph is titled exactly like that: an incredible landscape and it really is! It is one of the points where the mind finds refreshment: silence, serenity and tranquility with a tropical landscape in front of you, except for the climate and the polar temperature of the water! Walking, it is possible to climb the hills at the side of the beach and observe this marvel from here too, perhaps in the company of some cows!
-Other points of interest: there are other things to do within the park if you wish, such as a ride from Kylemore Abbey which you can also see from the outside for some photos or decide to visit. Even the town of Clifden can be a stop if you want.
Additional note of color: it will easily happen that you find yourself in the midst of a flock of very nice black-faced sheep as happened to us: they are very present in this park and you will also find them in other parts of the island!
I recommend using Galway as a base and an evening refreshment, because a day trip to the Connemara park is very demanding, the park is very large and getting around inside it, especially if you dedicate yourself to the trekking I mentioned and do the recommended route, it is very tiring.
BURREN AND CLIFFS OF MOHER: A passage in southern preparation
The next step of our tour was to reach the south, with some obligatory intermediate stops in the day. We then leave Galway and head first inland for a quick passage in the Burren and then to the coast for the famous Cliffs of Moher.
Also in this case we found ourselves in front of two new and different landscapes of Ireland:
-Burren (Boireann – rocky land): not far from Galway begins this characteristic area for being very rocky and limestone. Also in this case there are various activities to do, but we have decided to see an example of this area up close, inland and not on the coast. We then moved towards the Burren National Park for a little trek. Getting to the starting point of the trails is not easy because you will start driving along an infinite and narrow road (but paved and in excellent condition) surrounded by trees, greenery and stone walls, without knowing where you are going but only trusting your navigator friend which will take you to your destination: the starting point for Mullaghmore Hill. Again there are several marked trails in terms of length to climb the hill. The special thing is the particularity of this rocky terrain, which seems to be, as it is often mentioned, "a ghostly and lunar landscape". In fact, the moment you understand where you have arrived and where you are walking and you look at yourself around you perceive the meaning of this sentence. But in order to understand it, it is necessary, as always, to go inside and explore it with your little feet! Maybe don't waste the whole day because the second stage of this day of passage to the south awaits you…
-Cliffs of Moher: here we are at the very famous cliffs of Moher, one of the best-known tourist attractions in Ireland and invariably mentioned in every self-respecting documentary. These cliffs overhanging the sea also reach peaks of 214 meters! In this case, precisely given that the destination itself is very touristy, the wild charm is somewhat veiled by the path along the cliffs which has been well circumscribed for safety with a walkway and stairs. However, if you cover it all (it's about 8 km each way) you will be able to see the cliffs from different points and find your magical spot away from the tourists ... I'll tell you my opinion right away: these cliffs deserve obviously the visit and respect for them, but if you keep reading this article you'll understand why there's still so much more to discover on this island and it wasn't these cliffs that left me with the "wow" effect!
After seeing these two new pieces of Irish land we continue with a few hours of travel towards the South to get to Killarney: in my opinion, the most comfortable base point for exploring Kerry and the Dingle peninsula.
KERRY CLIFFS & THE RING OF KERRY: we meet his immense and always different majesty, NATURE in its most diverse forms
The Ring of Kerry was one of the best experiences we had on this trip. One day entire dedicated to this corner of Ireland that I would define incredible from different points of view. It is a panoramic ride, which in our case, with some detours that I will tell you about shortly, extended for about 200 km. The weather made this day even more adventurous and extraordinary: wind and rain accompanied us from morning to evening... but perhaps thinking about it, it was the touch of class to experience spectacular landscapes in full!
The tour is quite long and in some parts challenging for driving, the roads are perfectly kept, however some stretches are very narrow, so be careful first of all! That said, starting from Killarney I recommend going around in an anti-clockwise direction (to be clear, following the steps below) so as to do the slightly longer part in the early morning that leads from the town to the coast (approximately an hour and a half journey) to then enjoy this splendid emotion from the Kerry Cliffs onwards in one breath!
Now let's see the main stages that we have chosen:
-Kerry Cliffs: they are much less known than the cliffs of Moher, a little more hidden, but in my opinion, of unrivaled beauty and particularity. I also believe that experiencing them with the gusts of wind and the heavy rain that we encountered, really made this place almost incredible, like a movie. The stretch to be covered on foot in this case is not as long as in Moher, but it is also less accessible than the same route, and fortunately much less touristy.
-Ring of Skellig: starting from the Kerry Cliffs, following a very narrow road, it is possible to intercept another small hidden ring inside the Ring of Kerry itself: that of Skellig. We did the part that led us to Skelligs Chocolate, a chocolate shop immersed in this landscape where you can taste different chocolate productions and unusual combinations. Then we passed through Waterville and took the road to the next equally fantastic stop: a deserted and wild beach immersed in another natural park, the Derrynane National Historic Park.
-Derrynane beach: we are talking about a beach immersed in a natural park. Again, I repeat, a film landscape. Inside the park, the Derrynane National Historic Park, starting from the Derrynane House car park, it is possible to follow different routes, and knowing the tides, you can even walk to the island opposite the beach (caution as always!). What can I say, I also found this a magical place!
-Kenmare, Sneem and other points of interest: also in this case the possibilities to see and do things are the most varied. We finished by stopping for dinner in Kenmare, a small town on the way back. But if you want to spend more time in this place, you can certainly break up the days and insert other stops to liven up your tour!
I would like to add one thing to conclude this stage: doing this road by car is truly an indescribable emotion. Be patient up to the Kerry Cliffs to enter the territory, but from there on, really , videos, words and photos are not enough to describe this place. I personally lived a day immersed in a world apart, enjoying every moment, even when we climbed a hill in a very narrow road and with infamous weather, and a lot of fear, but the following descent was a pleasant surprise with spectacular views…
THE SHADES OF THE DINGLE PENINSULA: where ocean waves meet rugged land
Our journey continues to another suggestive and fascinating corner of the island: the Dingle Peninsula, about an hour and a half from Killarney. Also in this case we are talking about a journey of about 150 km (from the aforementioned departure) and care must be taken to organize the tour clockwise to better enjoy all that this area can offer, also based on the tides and the path of the sun (when it comes out!).
In order, here are the main stages that I indicate as points of interest along the way, which can be encountered following a wonderful panoramic road, the Slea Head Drive:
-Coumeenoole Beach: in this small cove hidden between the cliffs, the strength of the ocean is felt with the waves crashing on the beach. Here it is possible refresh yourself before tackling the next uphill point… Taking into account the tides, it is preferable to make this stop in the morning in order to also enjoy the part on the beach, perhaps observing many of the young locals surfing these magnificent waves!
-Dunmore Head: going up from Coumeenoole Beach we find the path to climb and reach this panoramic point. Small note of color: the climb is safe but quite spartan, you will find yourself walking in the grass along a thin path, and not far from you, as always, cows and sheep will be able to keep you company! The view from above shows us once again a different landscape from the previous days. From the same hill it is possible, paying attention, to move in different directions and admire glimpses of the coast, the interior of the peninsula and the Blasket Islands.
-Dunquin Pier: one of the most photographed views of the peninsula. In fact, even just for the snap of the moment it is worth going through this stage too, it is not far from Coumeenoole Beach and does not require particular physical effort. With a few rays of sunshine, the turquoise water surrounded by bright greenery and rocky peaks protruding from the water is a spectacular shot! You can go down to the water level always being careful and see more up close the peaks emerging from the ocean.
-Dingle and Inch Beach: if physical strength allows it... it is possible to make a quick passage to the town of Dingle, characterized by colorful houses, good food and shops of handicrafts and then end the day with a walk along Inch Beach, a sandy beach about 5 km long.
And even on this day, the effort was rewarded by the colors and tranquility that you feel when you experience these landscapes to the full!
A STOP IN CORK for an Irish Whiskey and return to Dublin
After fully savoring the South with fresh air, colors and a little ocean, we set off to go back up towards Dublin for the return, taking advantage of the crossing for a stop in Cork, where in addition to a quick passage through the city we decided to take a guided tour of the Jameson distillery to understand something more about Whisky! If you want, you can also leave from Cork airport, but we wanted to finish the circular tour to see until the end what else this island could give us.
Again, a couple of useful tips to make your trip from Killarney to Dublin more enjoyable:
- Cork: walking through the historic part we find the atmosphere of a more urban center than in the previous days where we are completely immersed in nature. A nice experience, if you come during opening hours, is also a visit to The English Market, a covered market to discover the local gastronomy. We didn't linger too much in Cork for reasons of time since the day's journey to return required several hours of travel by car;
- Guided tour of the JAMESON DISTILLERY MIDLETON: a curious experience. I'm not an expert on Whiskey, but it intrigues me every time I go on a trip to visit some characteristic production. Hence the idea of the distillery was born. The visit is in English, well organized, lasts about an hour and a half. The thing I appreciated the most was learning the difference between three Whiskeys: the Irish, the Scottish and the American one. In fact, during the visit, the guide explains not only the production process but also many particularities of Irish Whiskey, bringing to your attention first the production differences and then the taste differences of the three products! And indeed the difference is remarkable! Another very nice thing that I take home is a new cocktail recipe to use as a digestive after dinner: Jameson with half a squeezed lime and a bottle of Ginger Ale! Fresh, refreshing and digestive… a little joy!
- Other points of interest along the way: if you want, you can make other stops going up towards Dublin, passing by the Rock of Cashel if you have a particular passion for medieval buildings and Kilkenny, where we rested to sleep before returning.
Our tour on a geographical level ends here, but not on an emotional level. Even today, when I look at the photos and as I write this article, I carry with me a lot of serenity and satisfaction for having made this trip!
Continue reading, there are still a couple of interesting things to read ...
ABOUT THE FOOD
Let's open this greedy chapter... eating abroad is often difficult for many. For me, however, it has always been a reason for research and discovery. And Ireland hasn't disappointed me either.
Let's start by saying that, as in any place, it is necessary to do a little research to try some tasty satisfaction ...
Ireland is not made up only of pubs, which are in any case very characteristic and delightful. In fact, it is also possible to find haute cuisine restaurants, but also medium-cost solutions that offer innovative dishes adding different flavors to tradition.
In my case, I was able to taste fish dishes and fish soups in Galway with a fantastic and never-tried taste, but also some lobster in the south was not lacking. If you like them, a dish often offered on the menu is oysters paired with Guinness.
The meat had nothing to envy to the fish, an excellent dish in this case too! Both eaten grilled and in tasty combinations (like Mexican style), and in hamburgers.
A few notes on breakfast: everywhere you will find the typical Irish Breakfast, scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon ... accompanied by juices, bread and jams, without missing out on a very long coffee! I personally don't like this breakfast, but it is an established and pleasant habit for other people, and it is served with great care.
Other considerations regarding wines, which are often imported for obvious reasons, the cards offer a limited but quality selection. It is also widely used to pair dishes with cocktails and obviously with beer.
ORGANIZATION: something useful
A few notes relating to the preventive organizational part are a must.
By organization, I don't just mean having a place to sleep and a means to get around, but also knowing where to go and having days with well-established itineraries and things to do. Why? It's not a mania for perfectionism, but simply leaving with a good timetable, with references and organized days, even with refreshment points, allows you to completely dedicate your time to experiencing your emotions during the journey. And then, after being there, I can say that in a week's stay, if you want to be able to see the most beautiful things, there isn't much time to twirl your fingers!
Fortunately, Ireland is not, in my opinion, an island for mass tourism, but for enthusiasts! Except for a couple of points such as the Dingle peninsula, Dublin and the cliffs of Moher, where perhaps you can find a little more crowded (but nothing to do with the mass), the other areas are frequented by those like us who have planned a travel in wild style, and therefore for a few!
Some useful tips:
-Packed lunch: it is a must on trips. We practically did it like this every day, because it's convenient, because you don't have to lengthen the roads and stress yourself out looking for places on already busy days, let alone stay at the opening hours. Eat where and when you want and the problem of high summer temperatures… I would say that it really doesn't exist!
-Clothing and equipment for excursions and in general: the weather, as you will have understood, is unpredictable... water and wind can catch you suddenly, as well as the warm rays of the sun. In general it is a windy island especially on the coasts. Rainproof trousers, windproof and rainproof jacket, dressing like an onion, backpacks to cover, hiking shoes, are the bare minimum ... I would also add a wool cap, it was very useful to me!
-Routes and fixed points: when organizing travel itineraries, remember to bear in mind that the guide is on the left, and that some peninsulas such as the ring of Kerry, the Dingle or the Connemara park, in order to be experienced to the fullest, need stages organized with attention to the tour (clockwise or counterclockwise), the tides, the path of the sun, etc. So don't underestimate putting the stages in the right order with maps before setting off.
-Reservation of visits (except for the natural points of course) is recommended, but not mandatory. In Ireland they are very organized about this and it is possible to do everything online (like the Guinness Storehouse, the Old Library, guided distillery tours and more)!
These are just a few useful precautions to keep (to which to add obvious things such as optimal flight times, places to sleep and car rental), then everyone organizes themselves as they see fit... however, never underestimate the particularity of the island, the weather, the road, the size of the spaces and the length of the journeys.
A trip to Ireland isn't such a cheap trip, there's no point in hiding it. However, I can say that it's really worth it.
It's worth spending the time to organize it, the money to be able to make it, and the tiredness of living each day to the fullest.
The final satisfaction is immense, the serenity that it leaves is unparalleled, the memories of the places seen leave you breathless even at a distance of time.
If you want to take a trip to Ireland, this article is certainly a first starting point for a track that you can customize and enrich by browsing other comfortable and detailed in-depth sites.
I didn't think I'd write such a long article! But... as with everything else... it was worth it!
If you want to immerse yourself even more in the Irish atmosphere and start imagining your trip ... watch the video!
Photo & Video: Giovanna Maria Depriori
Music: Youth
Musician: @iksonmusic